Blimey. Well that was an interesting sew. I knew it was going to be very technical, so for once I was a good Fairy and put tailor tacks on all the dots and squares. MILLIONS of them. I stay stitched as instricted, basted even more than instructed, and so on and so forth. Partway through the first couple of steps, the pictures failed to match up to the work in progress. Turns out that I’d missed some of the markings, and also foolishly thought that the right side was the right side and that left and right were as usual.
Unpicking time, fortunately not too much of it. I not only re marked the missing dots, I also realised I had to actually LABEL them all as on th epattern piece- there are large dot As, small dot As, large square Es, medium dot Es etc. Also left and right aren’t as expected …at least not consistently. It doesn’t help that they refer to the main pattern piece as ‘front and back’ throughout. This leads to instructions like “pin remainder of left side of inset to unbound edge of front and back (;eft shoulder) matching small circle B and large circle A.”
I kid you not.
This led to some codging and fudging where I had to insert a square insert into the side, joing several different edges together. [Don’t ask.] This is the insert from the inside…the top edge forms the underarm. Oh yeah- a weird touch- they tell you to bind three sides of this insert with a bit of the horrible 1/4″ binding. Not needed- a simple zig zag would suffice. You don’t bind the larger insert on the other side…
The pattern description does mention that there are raw edges. Hell yeah. I realised this was going to be a Bad Thing partway through, and identified most of the edges which needed to be zigzagged in advance. No idea why the instructions don’t do this… It still looks pretty messy inside
Here’s the completed article, right sides out.
No pics of me in it yet, I’ll explain why.
I actually almost like it, it fits surprisingly well across the midriff, and the draping is lovely. The square armholes fit higher then I expected, and do actually cover a bra…just. BUT.
- The shoulders stand about 1.5″ higher than I do, and because of this, anyone could walk up to me and slide things across my chest from armhole to armhole. Or my back, as they prefer.
- There’s a weird hole to the side of the zip at the back, not connecting to anything. Maybe it’s for smuggling small animals across borders?
- I’m not enamoured of all thos long edges flapping loose inside- even zigzagged, they annoy me.
- The slashed and bound inner opening ends up being the shoulder/armhole edges…it looks odd.
- The side inserts are too wide at the top edge, also adding to the gapey bustline.
The fabrics recommended include dupion [as here], but I think it may be too crisp. I might try this in a ponte or possibly some fine white cotton lawn- this could look very origami-ish…
I’m going to do some judicious pinning on this, and mark where it needs to be altered: inserts narrower, an inch or so off the whole length [and I’d already shortened it because of fabric issues], the ‘shoulder length’ needs to be considerably shorter.
This will then mean a whole heap of faff to make sure markings are moved accordingly, which may be too much. Time will tell. I’ve got to finish a cake and get ready to go out soon, so this will be a job for tomorrow.