Back from Leeds, and [fairly] refreshed, I faced the job of cutting out the steam punk jacket and bodice this afternoon.
It’s a good job that the taffeta and satin fabrics were bargainalicious, as the pattern yardages are excessive to say the least. I have nearly 2m of the green left, and considerably more of the gold satin. Good job I’m thrifty and will find another use for both!
I squeezed the bodice out of little more than would make a sizeble cushion cover, used weirdly shaped remnants from the gold satin for lining, and retrieved some calico from my bag-of-bits-of-toiles to use as underlining. Another guilty secret revealed. Some of those toile pieces have enough pen on them to look like modern art, having been used for mutliple toiles already.
I hand basted the underlining to the embroidered fabric, and it’s all pinned ready for stitiching together before a trial fitting. I know it’s going to be a bit of a tricksy job, with all those seams, plus the fact that it needs to be boned AND have a zip in the back. I’ve [hopefully] erred slightly on the large side, and there are numerous seams that I can use to fit with, as there are ten pieces to this. I spent some time poring over the pattern measurements and my own, and have cut an 18 grading out [sharply] below the bust to the pattern maximum size, a 22. That roughly corresponds to my waist measurement [eek] although the amount of ease is hard to assess with all the pieces involved.
The jacket appears to have FOUR INCHES of ease allowed, which does seem a lot. However, it is meant to be worn over the bodice, and laces at the back, so I don’t think the fit will be difficult to sort out on that one.
The pattern calls for the neckline [a very low scoop that goes right under the bust] just to be stay-stitched- no facings at all. I’m going to stabilise further with a combination of a little fusible interfacing and perhaps some stay tape. The front cut away curves of the jacket skirt are getting the same treatment- the pattern photos look to have a fair bit of rippling.
I’m thinking that I could sacrifice one of my tattier about-to-die bras, fit to the bra, and rely on the extra support thus provided. It’s only a boned bodice, not a full-on corset, or even what I’d call a proper bustier, and I don’t want too much stress left on the zip to hold my excess padding safely together.
Meanwhile- those ruffles…I’m undecided. With my frontage, will they look silly? I could make a fake cuff instead, and perhaps use some ribbon or braid trim on the neckline?
OR I could add a narrower gold lace/ribbon layer over the black to tie it in?
Another option- I found this ombre wire-edged ribbon lurking in stash, and the colours are definitely good.
Oh yes, and here’s a pic of me ready to go out on Friday night to doc-daughter’s birthday bash. I finally opted for the lilac silk top, teamed with one of my StyleArc Ursula stretch skirts…which fortuitously looks like leather, hence posh enough, but stretchy for accomodating plenty of V & T. Which it did, as well as a couple of caipirinhas beforehand, and some prosecco. A glass of which my dear daughter poured all over my frontage. Sigh.Strange pose is because the only full length miror in the hotel room was in a narrow corridor, so I’m leaning against the wall! [That’s my excuse]
Day out in London tomorrow, so next bulletin may be delayed til Tuesday. Huzzah!