Last day of the summer break today, and I’m feeling all inspired [not for work you understand, but for sewing]
During my obligatory wakeful hours last night, I pondered a multitude of steam punk costume-related ideas. Hopefully I’ve remembered most of the best ones this morning!
Yesterday evening I managed to gather enough mojo to start sewing the green jacket. I applied interfacing around the neckline rather than stay stitching, sewed the centre back seam, and applied the very interesting pocket facings.
The pockets, as you may see in the image, are quite deep, with very large, shaped flaps. Normally of course [or certainly in my experience] the flaps are assembled setarately, bagged out, and attached OVER the pocket, be it patch or inset. Not here.
The bottom section of the jacket front is designed with the pocket flap cut on, then a facing is sewn to the top edges, and turned to the inside. The upper jacket front piece is the sewn to the bottom of the facing, making the pocket bag, and the whole lot sandwiched in place with princess seams. The flap then folds down.
I also made the fiddly faddly bit of rouleau for the back lacing loops, and got in a right paddy trying to turn it through. My foolproof little hooky gadget came loose, leaving the end partially turned through and unreachable. I hooked and swore and hooked and swore. Then I got my best chopstick, and poked and prodded and swore some more. This ended up with several inches of rouleau wadded firmly inside the tube.
I had an email yesterday from the seller of the black taffeta for the skirt. It seems that the lovely crushed taffeta which I ordered is not more, and I’ve opted to have the plain black returned. I have asked her for a discount though, let’s see what transpires.
I plan to make the skirt something like this, which is cut in one piece sort of an offset half circle]. However, I may take a slightly easier route and make the front panel as a separate piece, cutting the back as a circle or half circle. I don’t want such a long train, as it’s for party wear, and will only get trodden on.
I’m making a mini tournure to go underneath and aid the back shape. I ordered ‘china red’ crin, and got this. Looks pink to me…never mind, it’s just for underneath. I’m not planning a petticoat, as, in true steampunk style, I want to make it possible to draw up the front to just above the knee. Saucy baggage!
I’m sacrificing an old bra to the inside of the bodice, which I also hope to get pinned to fit today. I pin basted a zip in yesterday [having found one in stash of just the right length-yay!] and the fit is not too bad- I’ll only need to tweak it in under the bust and sides, and nowhere is too small, which is a relief. It fits quite high and snug over the bust, no cleavage or immodesty here!
Finally, so I can crack on, I remembered the beautiful assortment of trims which I used on my lovely wife’s ‘Edwardian Walking Jacket’ from Sense and Sensibility. She wore this as Other Mother of the bride at my youngest’s wedding three years ago. It’s made in a furnishing weight cotton mock suede, lined in silver ‘liquid satin’. She selected a whole range of trims from the Rag Market: black heavy lace border [venise lace?] very narrow black ribbon, and black piping. All had to be sewn on by hand because of the swirling patterns. I bled! Anyway, I found quite a few leftover bits, and I think they’ll look stunning on the green taffeta.
One final happiness- the steampunk goodies that I ordered from ebay arrived this morning…the buttons for the jacket:
And all this loveliness: how will I choose?