Black taffeta, front panel slightly A line, back panel half circle with a single pleat. V-shaped yoke at front, slightly curved at the back. Wide waistband, fastening at the side.
I used the yoke pattern from that Gunne Saxe suit, and extended it out 2″ either side to accommodate my generous girth. [ie fat gut.] The waistband is a simple rectangle, and I interfaced both yoke and waistband with a firm woven fusible for belly control. The front panel deals with the V of the yoke, and I’ve just set the half circle ‘waistline’ to match up the remainder of the yoke measurement. Did that make sense? No idea.
Yoke and waistband are double layered, skirt is single to avoid bulk when it’s gathered up for striding purposefully through ancient temples. As you do. The two skirt panels are joined in a felled seam to make a channel for gathering the front up, and I left a small gap in the yoke seam so that the cord/chain/whatever can come through to the front. That’s it really, very simple. I haven’t bothered to finish the waistband yet, but it will have a flat trouser/skirt fastening.
The tournure [bustle to you] is a single layer of buckram, cut to a trapezium shape. I think it measures about 12″ at the top, 14″ at the bottom, and is 12″ or so ‘high’. I cut out 2 layers of stash toile material in a firm cotton, sandwiched the buckram, and overlocked the sides. Then I added a strip of encased boning to the bottom edge.
The plastic/nylon/whatever crin has been cut into 3 pieces, with the lower piece being the longest of course, and then roughly pleated onto the base and stitched down, aiming for maximum ‘foof’ at each stage. It’s not very period accurate, but hey, this is steampunk, and the skirt is much lighter weight than costume accuracy would dictate!
The skirt now needs to hang for a while so that all that circle panel can drop before I trim to shape and hem.
I’ll then sort out trimming with lace or whatever tickles my fancy. Easy peasy.