…on corset making.
The last corsets I made were many many moons ago. I had no idea then how to ontain the specialist tools of the trade [busks, spiral boning, proper lacing] and I just relied on what I could get from the market plus the wonderful ‘Corsets and Crinolines’ by Norah Waugh.
The corsets did the job, [mostly theatrical] and all was well.
This time, with greater knowledge, technical skills, and online resources, I’m doing it properly. A lovely lady that only knows me through ‘The Sewing Forum’ very kindly sent me an uncut copy of Laughing Moon’s famous corset pattern. I’m opting for the ‘Silverado’ which is the one on the right, and comes with different cup-sized bust gores. I’m using the largest piece, cut to DD sizing.
I lay in bed this afternoon, prior to having a well-earned nap, and read all the pattern notes and extra information on corset construction, a bit of fashion history and so on. It is usual to cut the corset pattern best matched to your bust/waist/hip BUT you subtract between 2″ and 4″ to allow for the gap you should leave at the back for comfort. This also allows you to tight lace if you wish.
I already had some coutil [the firm woven cotton fabric which is best used for corsetry as it doesn’t twist or distort under the pressure of the bones and lacing] but blanched in horror at the horrible chaos that several months of productive sewing have left… fortunately, my nap refreshed the old synapses, and I went straight to the drawer where it lurked beneath a load of wadding and embroidery threads.
I also found 2 busks- joy! A bit of time with a tape measure after cutting out their standard size 16, and twenty minutes on the Vena Cava website, and all the correct length bones will be winging their way towards me on Monday morning. I’m thirty squid poorer, but this will be a custom made job, which will be worn under a whole wardrobe of planned outfits. Money well spent. The grommets/eyelets will be purchased from ebay, which will be somewhat cheaper! I may yet decide to handsew them as I did for the wife’s wedding dress…quite an enjoyable task as it turned out.
I’ve not yet decided if I will leave it plain white cotton, or cover it in fancy fabric. There are quite a few moderately sized pieces of gorgeous shot silk dupion left from the wife’s wedding dress, that may be just the thing… Given the steampunk style of wearing corsets outside clothing as well as underneath, fancy may be the best option for versatility. Let’s see how tidy I make it first!
Meanwhile, two patterns arrived from ‘Truly Victorian’ and are singing siren songs at me from the ironing board where they’re reclining, combing their hair and shimmying their seashell bras. Well you know what I mean.
Plan: skirt and evening bodice [right hand image, bottom left style] in purple embroidered taffeta, ‘day’ bodice/jacket [left hand image, top left style] in purple wool coating. All should combine hapily with my existing black taffeta skirt, white blouse and green jacket. Yum.
The photo here makes the purple wool look rather blue- it isn’t, more of a Cadbury purple. The silver is for lining and/or contrast trims.
Can’t wait! I’ll cut out the corset pieces tomorrow, and maybe sew a few bits together while I wait for the bones to arrive. I also have a shedload of marking and admin work, so can’t get too absorbed!
I can’t wait to read about this. Seems impossibly advanced to me, but I shall watch with great interest.
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Fiddly but not advanced- in fact, as you are such a meticulous craftswoman, it would probably be very straightforward for you. I’ll have to draw stitching lines everywhere and force myself to slow down a lot! Too much wobble on a boning channel and the bones stick. How do I know lol?
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Well maybe one day. It’s like bras, pants and jeans – I find RTW more than adequate so I can’t face learning a whole new set of skills. But I have never worn a corset.
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ooooh they’re lovely! but then again, you’re all slim an ting lol
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I have that Laughing Moon Pattern and have made the “Dore” for myself. I think that the sizing runs large, either that or I can’t measure properly. 🙂 I would take the time to make a muslin (toile) before you cut your coutil. It really has saved my bacon countless times. I have made lots of corsets derived from the patterns in that Norah Waugh book. It is a fabulous resource. Looking forward to seeing your corset made-up. Xx
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Well I measured me, and I read the pattern instructions [which explain about reducing by up to 4″-I suspect this may be why it has that reputation [at least, amongst folks who ignore the instructions lol?] Before I cut, I’ll compare again with my existing RTW corset, which laces with a fair gap at the back.
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Ooooh….Corsets!
It’s on my list of ‘To Do’ makes….(together with a huge heap of vintage dress patterns.)
My lovely dad found me a copy of the Norah Waugh book in a junk/second hand shop. He said it looked just the sort of thing I’m interested in!
I love the look and the construction in a corset….I’d never wear it though….I don’t go anywhere I’d get away with wearing such an item and not look eccentric.
You’ve got some lovely sewing projects to get stuck in to….looking forward to following your progress.
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That’s where the steampunk comes in- EVERYONE looks eccentric, that’s the point! Fabbo
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Can’t wait to see this in progress. I have that Laughing Moon pattern in my wish pile but really can’t imagine wearing it myself.
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ah gwan gwan gwan
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May need to join steampunks to justify. Oddly tempting. The Management would have a fit! ( It’s almost worth it just for that!)
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I used the Laughing Moon pattern and made the “Dore” a few years ago. I ended up have to self-draft some of it because there is a 10″ difference between my bust and under-bust measure, but the instructions included were fabulous. Making a muslin definitely helped me get everything figured out, both with fit and the boning channels. Also, I covered my inner coutil with upholstery fabric, which was really fun and had NO stretch at all. I can’t wait to see how this turns out!
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I think I’m going with the silk outer, but lining with lawn for comfort. Coutil can be scratchy!
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By eck missus, this is going to be a piece of work. I shall drop in from time to time to see how things are coming along.
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good-o, I miss you!
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