I think I’ve redeemed things.
How I did this: I marked the seamlines on the back yoke and main piece, then pinned them together, pleating away the excess in three places, tapering back out to roughly the original width at the hem.
It went together easily, although I had to think out the facings slightly differently because of the change to the back. I did French seams at the sides and all other seams are fully enclosed…EXCEPT the CF where the two bodice yokes overlap slightly and join, placket-style, to the ‘skirt’. Those edges, following the pattern instructions, would be left messy and raw. Not at the point where any cleavage view will expose them mate, and not with such outrageously fray-able fabric! I cut a small piece of bias, and bound it up. Much better.
The front gathering is slightly odd to modern eyes, but actually does a great job with the corset:
The aim of this, as you recall, was to reduce backfat bulge over the corset top. I settled the corset just a tad higher than yesterday, and asked the wife to lace it tighter at the bottom, and looser at the top. This took some faffing, as too tight=bulge, and too loose=free form boobs.
We pretty much got it. So, then I added the rest of the layers, tournure, the green walking skirt, and the jacket toile.
Reminder- I let out all princess seams by 1/8″ to 1/4″, pinned out a horizontal dart at back waist, and put the sleeve on the right way. Ahem.
The neckline will be a lot lower, as I can always fill in the neckline with a scarf or false front, but we pinned it high to check the lines. The drag lines at back waist are reduced when I pinch out a bit at the side waist. There will also be a waiststay to stabilise the waist.
The shoulders look better already, and again, a lot will be affected by the bulk of 3 layers, so I don’t want to over fit at this stage, especially as the neckline will be so different. I think that the back fat issue is nearly gone, and fabric layers plus a backstay will fix any that is left.
I don’t intend to wear additional layers underneath, I’d rather add a shawl if it feels cold…so possibly just a corset cover so that I’m decent if I need to remove it in public due to overheating !