I think I’ve redeemed things.
I made a new chemise- I found I had just enough silk left to make a short version of the Laughing Moon chemise, with modifications to the back to reduce the back bulge problem.
How I did this: I marked the seamlines on the back yoke and main piece, then pinned them together, pleating away the excess in three places, tapering back out to roughly the original width at the hem.
It went together easily, although I had to think out the facings slightly differently because of the change to the back. I did French seams at the sides and all other seams are fully enclosed…EXCEPT the CF where the two bodice yokes overlap slightly and join, placket-style, to the ‘skirt’. Those edges, following the pattern instructions, would be left messy and raw. Not at the point where any cleavage view will expose them mate, and not with such outrageously fray-able fabric! I cut a small piece of bias, and bound it up. Much better.
The front gathering is slightly odd to modern eyes, but actually does a great job with the corset:
The aim of this, as you recall, was to reduce backfat bulge over the corset top. I settled the corset just a tad higher than yesterday, and asked the wife to lace it tighter at the bottom, and looser at the top. This took some faffing, as too tight=bulge, and too loose=free form boobs.
We pretty much got it. So, then I added the rest of the layers, tournure, the green walking skirt, and the jacket toile.
Reminder- I let out all princess seams by 1/8″ to 1/4″, pinned out a horizontal dart at back waist, and put the sleeve on the right way. Ahem.
The neckline will be a lot lower, as I can always fill in the neckline with a scarf or false front, but we pinned it high to check the lines. The drag lines at back waist are reduced when I pinch out a bit at the side waist. There will also be a waiststay to stabilise the waist.
The shoulders look better already, and again, a lot will be affected by the bulk of 3 layers, so I don’t want to over fit at this stage, especially as the neckline will be so different. I think that the back fat issue is nearly gone, and fabric layers plus a backstay will fix any that is left.
I don’t intend to wear additional layers underneath, I’d rather add a shawl if it feels cold…so possibly just a corset cover so that I’m decent if I need to remove it in public due to overheating !
Fitting advice?
thedementedfairy 
You are so much more patient than I am. It’s coming together nicely. No advice on fitting as you seem to do a lot better than me :). I haven’t made any Victorian clothing but I have made 17th century. The corset was much simpler and the jacket had a much straighter front (a bit difficult when amply endowed) but the flat fronted corset helped.
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Seriously- I am the most impatient person in the universe. If I don’t get things done pretty promptly, I just abandon them, which is why I’ve set myself the SWAP as a goad!
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It is so nice to look into your world of steampunk, it fascinates me but I really don’t want to wear it. It just looks so lovely with all the fabrics, layers and accessories. Rosemary
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I’ve always loved looking at costumes, but don’t have any inclination to act. Now I’m getting on a bit, I’m also not shy, so it all came together- fun sewing, gorgeous gear AND showing off. And cake. Sorted! I don’t think I’d want to go the whole home decor aspect though, not my thing at all.
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I have been following your posts with a mixture of awe and amazement – and just a wee bit of envy over your silk chemise. Carry on and steamroller us with your unique SWAP
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The silk chemise only takes an hour or so to make up…go on, you know you want to!
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Okay fitting advice: I might try pinning up the shoulder by 1/2 inch vertically ( if you see what I mean). There is quite a lot of fabric between the back of the arm-hole and the shoulder seam. I still might be tempted to do a small FBA. Thick cloth will take up a fair bit of room. I do like how this is turing out very much and am very tempted to make one of these up too. The short version is such a lovely shape. It would be fab in the high neckline with lots of small bound buttonholes down the front. Xx
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Thanks- It’s all cut out and underlined now. I’m going to get the darts sewn, machine baste everything together, baste in the bones and have another look. I had noticed the excess at the back shoulder, thanks for reminding me how to fix it! I’m also pinching out a tiny bit at the top of the back curved princess seams only.
The cloth is not actually that thick, but it it quite stretchy-I noticed when pressing it I had to be quite careful to pat it into shape as it cooled. I’ve been getting a lot of advice from someone from FB as well- probably way too meticulous for slapdash me, but I’ll try some of it.
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