My fingers are raw from all the hand-stitching to make the insides nice and contained- all seam allowances are caught down to the underlining. The bones are all in, [also sewn into the seam allowances by hand] and the alterations/tweaks are all done. The front and back stays are in, and all basted into place [that’s these dark blue corduroy pieces]
I decided to make life harder for myself by piping all the edges. Partly just for the look of it, but also to further reinforce that cutaway neckline, which is all on the bias of course. I went with the lovely old gold poly taffeta, as I have loads, and very thin rat tail piping cord.
There are a lot of sharp corners in the jacket, and piping doesn’t do corners, so I did my own thing, running the piping off one side of the angle, then starting again, overlapping to make the corner. It took a fair bit of trimming, pressing, and hand stitching, but I’m pretty happy with it!
I did all edges except for around the ‘tail’…then decided that the vertical edges needed finishing to match, so I’ve just added that bit on. I’m not taking it round the bottom of the pleats, they won’t lie neatly. The piping also goes round the cuffs.
I did all this piping while waiting for a couple of spiral bones to arrive, as the two I had left from the corset were the wrong length, and every alternative type of boning wouldn’t go nicely round the back curved seams.
I’ve also spent a lot of time pondering about buttons, or possibly hook and eye fastenings. I ordered some more of the cog buttons I used on my first Steampunk outfit, but they may be a week or so arriving.
While I wait, I’m considering further options:
- no buttonholes, and just put the buttons on over hook or even snap fasteners
- handsewn buttonholes
- bound buttonholes in the green wool
- bound buttonholes in the gold taffeta, to avoid bulk
I’ve done a couple of practice ones, and they’re far from expert yet, but what do you think? Too much? Stick with hand-sewn? I still haven’t got my vintage Singer rigged up for buttonholes…maybe now’s the time to play with it….