I’ve been computer-less for days, as my PC seems to have died [backed up? of course not dammit]
I’ve eked out my existence with use of a not-very-good tablet, which wouldn’t let me blog or do anything much.
We retrieved the laptop today, but forgot the mains lead, so while power allows, I thought I’d better get blogging. First up- the end of the green jacket: OMG what a lot of hand sewing to finish. Every time I thought the end was in sight, I found something else to tidy up.
First, I had to deal with the pleats- I machined the lining to the jacket at the bottom edge, and turned it through. For some reason I opted to hand sew the understitching. I blame you Fabrickated, that would never have occurred to me before seeing it on your blog- It does look nice though!
Then I had to match up the lining with the pleated wool and re form the pleats. This tool more faff, swearing, and plenty of steam and basting until everything obeyed my wishes. The pattern instructions just say to baste the finished pleats to lining and seam allowances, which was not to my liking, too messy!
I therefore gave myself yet another job and made bias strips to neaten and enclose all those raw edges. The buttons help to hold all the weight of the pleats…
The lining was to be hand-sewn in, but first the back of the buttonholes had to be tidied. Erk. Thin fabric, 9 buttonholes. I had to pin the entire lining into position, leaving the buttonhole edge free. Lots of pins. Ouch. I did most of the hand sewing of the lining, then had to faff a bit. I did something between Ann Ladbury’s method and ones recommended on more recent tutorials. I marked the positions with a disappearing marker, then hand stitched a little piece of iron on reinforcement tape onto each, making a sort of eye shape. I cut along the line, and turned it through, then pressed it into place. Hmmm. Some worked, but in some places the iron on stuff fought me. Buggrit. Ah well, it’s only the inside says the non-perfectionist, and ploughed on. The resulting fairly neat eye shaped openings then got caught down to the backs of the piped buttonholes.
Good enough. Sigh. Note to self- do this better next time!
I finished catching the lining down, then sewed on the buttons- three groups of three plus one at the neck. I made the loop for the neck button with a hair elastic. That took long enough for my now-sore fingers. So I decided to sew three onto each cuff. Then another three onto the back pleats to act as reinforcement.
Can you imagine how long all of this took? Wah!
Of course, I still needed to make more work for myself, so followed the advice of some historical costume experts, and made an internal belt/waist stay from wide elastic with a skirt hook fastening. It goes through three thread loops at centre back and sides. It’s brillliant!
Oh yes, I also had to faff to get the sleeve linings handsewn round the armscye- I pleated them instead of gathering- and also added little sleeve head pouffs made from voile and crin.
Right, that’s all the tech spec, now for the finished pics. About rarted time I hear you mutter…
Off we went a-steampunking, only the traffic defeated us so we drove back. Tried to go for tea at a local castle, tearoom was shut. All that work! Anyway, there are a couple more events before xmas, the gear will still be shown off, and in any case, this is my SWAP 2016 Pack 1 almost all in order.
Oh yes, here’s the wife looking dapper in her xmas steampunk shopping gear: