And on we go! The SWAP rules let me do loads of prep and cutting out in December, so with any luck I can get most things sorted before I go back to work. As I said previously, I actually followed instructions with the sizing this time, and the pattern stitches up very straightforwardly. I’ve stay stitched the neckline to prevent too much stretch during fitting.
And here it is. TV#420, 1870s cuirasse bodice.
Back view- good. I had wondered if the back V would be low, but it’s very nice.
But look at all that excess in the front! And it’s smaller than I would have made…weird. The neckline i rather too wide and low, but that’s easily fixed either cutting it slightly differently, or attaching a trim that fills the gap slightly. There’s a lot of room at hip level too. This isn’t supposed to be worn over a bustle, and I do have my hip padding in place, so that surprised me.
The front overlap is uneven, but so was the green jacket…there’s a very small overlap at the top, abut quite a lot below the waist to achieve a ‘straight’ looking CF. Although I reduced the sleeve cuff/band by several inches, it’s still huge. And my arms are not skinny. They must be drafted for hams.
I tweaked some front dart changes, took a little out of the sleeve band, re stitched and came back for more.
Hmmm. The excess is gone, but drag lines drag lines.
The back waist was all over the shop, so I got wifey to pin out a horizontal dart:
SORT of OK, but trouble at armpit height…
And there’s something unhappy at the sides…
Interesting how much those dart tweaks messed up the back. When I was working on fixing my prematurelu cut out green jacket, the pattern designer suggested making some adjustment at the shoulder seam, and possibly lowering the armhole. I’m keeping that in mind, but going back to looking at the front, I have decided to
- Re cut the front panels a size smaller
- Attempt an FBA to see if I can level out that CF overlap
- Take in at the darts AND possibly a little at the side seam
- Adjust the neckline shape to be narrower and a fraction higher. Not for modesty, just to keep it on the shoulders!
Any other suggestions, hive mind?