And on we go! The SWAP rules let me do loads of prep and cutting out in December, so with any luck I can get most things sorted before I go back to work. As I said previously, I actually followed instructions with the sizing this time, and the pattern stitches up very straightforwardly. I’ve stay stitched the neckline to prevent too much stretch during fitting.
And here it is. TV#420, 1870s cuirasse bodice.
Back view- good. I had wondered if the back V would be low, but it’s very nice.
But look at all that excess in the front! And it’s smaller than I would have made…weird. The neckline i rather too wide and low, but that’s easily fixed either cutting it slightly differently, or attaching a trim that fills the gap slightly. There’s a lot of room at hip level too. This isn’t supposed to be worn over a bustle, and I do have my hip padding in place, so that surprised me.
The front overlap is uneven, but so was the green jacket…there’s a very small overlap at the top, abut quite a lot below the waist to achieve a ‘straight’ looking CF. Although I reduced the sleeve cuff/band by several inches, it’s still huge. And my arms are not skinny. They must be drafted for hams.
I tweaked some front dart changes, took a little out of the sleeve band, re stitched and came back for more.
Hmmm. The excess is gone, but drag lines drag lines.
The back waist was all over the shop, so I got wifey to pin out a horizontal dart:
SORT of OK, but trouble at armpit height…
And there’s something unhappy at the sides…
Interesting how much those dart tweaks messed up the back. When I was working on fixing my prematurelu cut out green jacket, the pattern designer suggested making some adjustment at the shoulder seam, and possibly lowering the armhole. I’m keeping that in mind, but going back to looking at the front, I have decided to
- Re cut the front panels a size smaller
- Attempt an FBA to see if I can level out that CF overlap
- Take in at the darts AND possibly a little at the side seam
- Adjust the neckline shape to be narrower and a fraction higher. Not for modesty, just to keep it on the shoulders!
Any other suggestions, hive mind?
thedementedfairy 
This is looking lovely. You have a slim, delicate look, probably due to this being in white and light weight. I am so impressed.
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Aw thanks! The actual fabric is also lightweight, but will be underlined and lightly boned. I’m undecided about the skirt- underline, or petticoat, or both. It all affects the final shape…
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I did comment to wifey that the puff sleeves [which I would normally avoid like the plague] help with the illusion of a smaller waist…
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There we are again – add bulk to appear thin! Optical illusion.
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well with all the hip padding I’m already wearing, it is becoming pretty clear isn’t it? My big ol’ belly has only been squashed in a couple of inches, certainly not tight lacing. Geometry in action!
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Looks like you need another horizontal dart across the back at armhole level.. A FBA may take away the drag lines at the sides…other than that the back is a lovely fit.
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I’m very happy with the back- or was until I changed the front. I’ll do the front tweaks first, then take another look- I think I can possible just raise the shoulders a tiny bit.
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Haha! Drafted for hams! Love the details here (who knew there was such a thing as horizontal darts?), the fit is looking great. You’re making so much progress with your SWAP! I’m fearing mine won’t ever get started……..
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It’s not even time to start so you’re OK lol. I think most ‘normal’ garments don’t take this much faff so I’m glad of the extra time
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I would definitely do an FBA before tackling the back. It looks like it is pulling round and that maybe the upper back bit will drop down once you have done this. I might also do a very small broad back adjustment. The shoulders needs adjusting a smudge too I would maybe pin the up a cm or so. This is really nice though. Xx
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I think it’s going to be really nice, even though I was in two minds [only 2?] about those puff sleeves. Advice from Artisan’s square is similar, and to take the back horizontal tuck higher up, under the arms. All will be tried!
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Love it, you really suit that style. Is everything going away for Christmas or will you crack on?. Like the red lights by the way.
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I’ll keep everything out if I can as we don’t have loads of family around or anything, we like a small quiet Xmas [like every day but with presents and more food really!]
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