I mentioned that I’d succumbed, yet again, to StyleArc PDF fever. I bought three trouser patterns, and a skirt. The ensued several hours’ worth of cutting and sticking them all together. I quite like this, but it’s hard on my back!This was my haul:
Willow -slim leg, side zip.
Sammi-bootleg, fly front.
Ebony-elastic waist with drape front. These are for me.
Taylor skirt-an interesting pull on skirt with asymmetrical seaming. Also for me.
I cut out toiles for Willow and Sammi, both size 14, shortened by a good 3″, and with my ham-fisted adjustment for the wife’s round bottom. I just extended the back crotch curve, nothing fancy.
I noticed that the front crotch curve on the Sammi was very shallow indeed, barely curved at all in fact. Not surprisingly, this produced a rather odd fit: my lovely wife is curently carrying more weight than normal, and most of it was sitting on her tummy yesterday. The trousers had to be adjusted in the darts to accomodate that, and fitted nicely at the back, but had rather a lot of pouching at the front. Despite all the excess room, she said they felt tight’underneath’ when she raised her leg [eg, climbing stairs]
I stared for a while and theorised that the shallow curve was holding all the wearing ease in the wrong place: instead of allowing movement, the shape is ‘locking’ the extra fabric where it isn’t needed. Interesting! I get very different trouser fitting issues, as I have a flat bum and fat belly…
The Willow did not have the same issues, the front crotch curve was still slight, but more effective than the Sammi. I removed the front darts, and did a tiny curve alteration on the hip. The legs are WAY too pegged for our tastes though [her foot got stuck lol], so I may graft the leg shape from the Sammi onto the body of the Willow: I want to make a tartan pair of trousers, and the simpler style is better suited to pattern matching than a fly front.
I’ll be doing some hacking later, adding in some more generous seam allowances so that I can tweak more easily. StyleArc use a rather skimpy seam allowance which I like for knits, but I find a more traditional 5/8″ is better for woven fabrics, making it easier to neaten the seams.
As the missus is finding that her weight fluctuates quite a lot these days [damn you, menopause!] I plan to make a centre back seam on the Sammi, straight through the waistband, as in menswear, allowing for easier alteration. The Willow will just have a facing, but I’ll do it the same way.
So that’s all for now, not very exiting, but my little missus desperately needs a whole load of new clothes, so it should be worthwhile getting a couple of patterns to the T&T stage.
In between, I’ll just have to make gazillions of tucks, buttonholes, and ruffles to cheer myself along!