I have spent today trying to improve the fit on the wife’s trousers. Some swearing, some hilarity, but I think I’ve learned from it.
I’m concentrating for now on the StyleArc Sammi, as we both like the bootcut shape. I tried some alterations on the Willow as well, but I’ll explain why I’ve pushed them off to one side as I go…
Let’s be clear- I have absolutely NO training in sewing, and definitely not in fitting. I used to be able [as so many of us did]to just buy a pattern, make it up in [old] size 10 or 12, and it would fit well enough.
No more of course. For one, I’m more of a [modern] size 16-18 now, and not even remotely ‘standard’ in shape. My lovely missus used to also be a petite and athletically slim 8-10, but is a rather more curvaceous 14-16 now, and prone to water retention and bloating. Life’s a bitch!
The trousers looked OK to me at first, fitting nicely on the bum, but there was a whole heap of trouble in the front crotch. I’d taken out a couple of tiny pinches at the side seam and back darts, but decided that the excess fabric in the crotch was probably due to the very shallow curve on the pattern pieces. I’d already extended the back crotch length by a couple of inches, as this fix works very well on the stretch trousers that I’ve made for her previously.
Not a good enough fix for woven, it seems!
I made the front crotch curve deeper, and shorter, after watching some YouTube videos. I just grafted some scrap fabric on, and re-cut, by eye.
Some improvement, but not good enough. Then in my browsing, I stumbled on some lovely folk making ‘moulds’ of their crotch curves using those rubbery French Curve ruler thingies. I used to have one, but it died, unused, many years ago.
Out came the tinfoil and rubber bands, and I made a curve model of wifey’s undercarriage. A-ha! No surprises in that her curvaceous bum produced a very different shape to the pattern pieces, but look how different the front curve is as well!
MUCH more grafting of fabric bits, and then I traced the fishbowl curve, added in rough seam allowances, and then found that the inside leg seams were WAY out, with the back seam about 2″ longer than the front. More chopping and grafting ensued, all done by eye. Look, I’m a maths teacher, it doesn’t make me want to actually DO maths at the weekend!
Anyway, reassembled, things are looking WAY better. The front crotch, despite being monstrously cobbled and grafted, is sitting in the right place.
The bum is not bad, but needs a LEETLE more rise, and also to curve in more at the waist. I think I’ve gone as far as I can with this toile though, I’ll cut it apart, redraw and tidy up those curves.
I made a fishbowl curve for me as well, and was quite amused by the comparison of the two together:
I do find this boring though, so enough for today. She’s finally decided on which shirt patterns should match which fabric, so I can cut a couple of shirts out tomorrow, and whizz her up something smart to wear.
I’ve just noticed what a very monochrome post this is, so here’s some colourful relief!