Vogue 9145 panelled couture dress, plain black ponte and flocked tartan ponte. Both fabrics from Barry’s.
I started sewing this a couple of days ago. Although the dress is meant to be made in woven, eg crepe or the like, I thought the ponte would make it more likely to fit! There isn’t much wearing ease in this one, which is unusual for Vogue, so after much deliberation, I’ve cut the size 20. This is a first for me, but I wanted to make sure there would be bust room, and no pulling over the tum, as that will be vile with all these panels going on.
It took a couple of hours to cut out, single layer, and 18 pattern pieces. Almost every single one gets cut once only, bar a piece that fills in at the side seams, which appears x4.
I’ll be sewing this mainly on the overlocker, which should reduce bulk at the seams [so many seams] and make it go quite quickly. The instructions are for the full couture treatment, except, no underlining or lining which I find odd. Anyway, the ponte would make most of those steps redundant anyway, and I will wear this with a slip- the skirt is HUGELY full. I hadn’t realised by looking at the pattern, but it ends up a full circle, if not slightly more. To prevent wardrobe malfunctions in the case of twirling, a slip will be essential!
I’m not a major fan of sleeveless, so will be making up a little top to wear under this, should I desire sleeves. I managed to find some chiffon-y stuff with a tartan print, black on black, which should work well.
This stuff is hard to photograph, and looks grey under artificial light. I can assure you it is acrually quite a dense black though, and the flocked tartan gives it a richness that I find very appealing.
I decided to at least start in couture fashion, and as accurate stitching can be tricksy on the overlocker, I thread basted all dots and all stitching lines. Yes, it took ages, so thank heavens for Stephen King audiobooks! I’m re-listening to ‘Dumas Key’ for this one.
Then I quickly basted front to back, and shoulders.
There are PAGES of instructions. Hidden amongst many pointless steps on the lines of attach 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4 etc, there is a side zip insertion, a very complex looking method to attach the neck facings, and a never-seen-before hidden press-stud fastening on one shoulder. There’s also a waist stay, and lingerie loop thingies. Couture indeed!
Well, it doesn’t need a zip or shoulder fastening, so that will save time! I slipped it on over my head and shimmied it into place with no trouble at all. I felt rather short and stout, mainly because I am, but also because full skirts always make me feel that way. I’m sure it will be fine once I have heels on. I think I will see how it lies once all those seams are lying more smoothly, but I can probably take it in a bit at the side seams- not surprisingly, those armholes look a tiny bit wide right now. If I carefully taper a tiny bit away at all seams ending at the armhole, that should be fixed without spoiling the swirl pattern at all.
I may even finish this in time for New Year [not that we’ll be going anywhere, but one more item slipping into 2016 won’t hurt!]