Edwardian skirt & Eton Jacket #1

Another bit of African print-inspired Edwardian crazy…but less so than some.  I think.  This is a really unusual fabric- ornately printed of course, in a lush red and black design, but also embossed/textured.  I’ve never seen or felt anything quite like it, and couldn’t resist.  If I recall correctly, it was the usual 6 yards for about £15, from Birmingham rag market.  I’ve used scraps of black sateen from my cycling bloomers to make the facings.

It’s a ten-gored pattern, with a high waist, sized to fit over a corset of course.  The waistband is also ‘lightly’ boned to keep the shape and prevent it from rolling over. I made my first ever ‘concealed’ hook and eye placket, and was very pleased with the result.  I wouldn’t do it again though, when it’s so easy to just buy hook and eye tape!

There are only 1/2″ seams allowed here, so I overlocked all the long seams before stitching.  Not historically accurate, but neither is African cotton!

The notches on the pattern pieces caught me out here- the first thing you do is sew the centre back seam and put in the back fastening.  Then you attach all those panels.  I think I sewed the wrong seam on the CB pieces, as my notches immediately were all out.  I was also temporarily foxed by the fact that when I laid the pieces out on the table, I had to use the pattern pieces in reverse number order from left to right, ie 5,4,3,2,1.  I think I was sewing too late into the evening as this flummoxed me for ten minutes!  Doh.

Anyway, that CB is probably out, but after doing my lovely placket opening, I wasn’t changing it.  It means that the hem edge is out at that point, but I need to trim more off it in any case.

Now ‘all’ I need to do on that is bone that waist, and then make a 3″ deep hem facing, after checking the length of course.  So I have to decide on wearing it with or without heels.  Decisions decisions…  Anyway, one more sewing session should finish that little beauty.

The cropped ‘Eton’ jacket was very popular in the 189os, and could have any number of variations.  The cropped style helps show off, and further emphasis the waist.  It’s all optical illusion remember, the shape is about 80% padding!

My Eton jacket shouldn’t take much effort as there’s [for once] no boning or trim or fastenings.  Yay!

This one has large ‘gigot’ or ‘leg of mutton’ sleeves, which need some internal support to stop them collapsing.  I have made them in several layers to help support the puff- main fabric, with some firm interfacing ironed on, then a taffeta layer for some ‘scroop’ [the correct word for the sound taffeta makes, don’t you love it?] then lining.  I may put a bit of netting inside too if it looks like it needs more oomph.

I couldn’t resist the colour matching opportunities in using this charity shop find of a burgundy quilted table runner…snazzy!  I’d actually hoped to make the whole jacket in this, but those sleeves defeated me, so I’m just using it to line the bodice pieces and collar.

The collar is in contrasting burgundy taffeta, also from stash, trimmed with a scrap of the black ribbon used on the hobble-skirt dress.

And that’s work so far.  Soon be done, and there will be pics as soon as I knock up an appropriate petticoat.  All these changes of style require different undies you see, so that’s an excuse for more pretties!  Petticoats for this style would be princess line, or gored to match the skirts.

Back soon!

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