I got it aaaaallllllll cut out today. The lining, and the main fabric were straightforward enough, but I went more slowly than usual because of the price of it all! I dug out duvet cover which we hardly used because its taffeta top layer was beautiful but deafening, and used the [poly?]cotton back of it for underlining. JUST enough, with one small bit of piecing, so that was satisfying! As I’d expected, the 3m piece of lining wasn’t QUITE enough to get the sleeves out, so I used one of the two grey pieces. All good.
The cuffs are re-shaped, the sleeves are shortened, and all the appropriate pieces are interfaced. I have the hair canvas ready to make reinforcement pieces for upper back and chest, to help keep the shape of the coat. Dawn has changed her mind about soutache trim, so that’s a bit of work saved!
I’ve also got all the additional bits ready to make an inside welt pocket.
Then I handbasted all the underlining onto the main fabric pieces, because I do.
I’ve sewn the lining together too, although it’s not clipped or pressed yet, just so I could do one quick fitting before ploughing on with the coat itself.
When I wasn’t hand basting or cutting, I re-watched Ann Ladbury’s brilliant little 1967 tutorial on making piped buttonholes, then made a practice one. [Here’s the video, the part you want is about 3.30-14.00]
The strips of wool for the piping are fiddly, and want to fray a lot, so I’ll be doing a combination of whipstitching, fraycheck and/or iron on interafcing to slow it down. I’m quite happy with this trial buttonhole, the piping is narrower and neater than the usual origami style bound buttonhole, which I find unweildy with thick fabric.
I’m usually shattered on Mondays and Tuesdays, so may not get much further for a couple of days, but who knows?