Long seams all done, and a quick try on for the missus [very happy indeed, much strutting and swishing], so on to the sleeves. Unusual drafting and assembly here- remember that odd cuff design? It’s a tapered pattern piece, so that the short cuff edge meets the long cuff edge. Not acceptable I’m afraid Simplicity!
First I joined the shorter of the two sleeve seams, and made it nice. See how the bottom edge is just a diagonal?
I’ve cut the cuffs very simply, just finding that seam point on the pattern piece, and mirroring it. It didn’t take much tweaking to get it to sit nicely. I’ll have to be very careful to get the long cuff edge to match up when I stitch that. Having got the cuff shape right, I cut off the excess sleeve fabric
Here’s the cuff pattern piece overlaid on my ‘M’ shaped adaptation, pinned onto the sleeve.
From the right side, but not yet stitched.Dramatic, isn’t it?
Even more drama from the sleeve pleating. I’m actually surprised I managed to talk her into keeping this design, she originally wanted me to replace the sleeve with a ‘plain’ one. I made a stern face, she capitulated. Now she loves it.
I’ve also whizzed up the sleeve linings, in the second colour paisley fabric [remember I ran out of the red?] Now before it all gets joined together, I want to add in chest and upper back stays, to keep those sleeves nicely supported, and give it all a good shape on the shoulders.