Dawn’s Coat #9:structure

Tailoring, Fairy style: I’ve never been trained, don’t own any sewing books, and basically either make things up as I go or use good old t’Internet.  So this is a  combination of laziness, excellent blog posts [eg Gertie’s] and good old ‘needs must’.  I’m more than happy to be informed of better methods, I’ve bled for this!

1.The peachskin collar was looking very limp.  It will be fairly well supported by the  firmly interfaced undercollar, but I wanted it to have more oomph.  It isn’t really a ‘proper’ tailored collar, there is no roll line as such, just folding back on itself roughly where the seamline is, but it is also meant to be poofy-ish, as it’s styled for fur fabric.  So I knew I wanted to add some body to it. [Not somebody, that would be weird.]

While rummaging for the sleeve head stuff, I found [well OK dropped several times] a roll of bag interfacing/wadding which I think I picked up in York at Viking Loom some time ago.  I bought two weights, and this is the thinnest.  I’m hoping it will add warmth and a little oomph without looking bulky.  If it’s too much, I suppose I’ll have to go in and remove it later, as I won’t really know til it’s assembled.  So far, I think it’s looking good, and Dawn likes the snuggliness

2. More interfacing:  I interfaced one entire coat front piece with fusible, to support the buttonholes.  I wish I hadn’t because there is a bit of pulling around the buttonholes that I hope will vanish once the facings are on.  I wanted to add chest and back stays to support the sleeves and collar area, preventing stretching or sagging.  I did a sort of mish mash of methods, so can’t quote a single source, but I’m partly using the pattern pieces and partly ‘draping’ [lol, me, draping!] to get the right shapes.

I used proper ‘hair canvas’, a synthetic version which is all they had at Barry’s.  It was pricey though.  A bit of padstitching, and ready for sleeve insertion.

3.   Those pleated sleeve heads must not be allowed to collapse.. I bought some sleeve head stuff over a year ago intending to use it in one of my steampunk jackets…but forgot.  I’ve uncovered it from time to time, as it travels from one storage heap to another, or floats unaided from one ziplock bag to another, or gets put in a better drawer [Ihave separate ones for tape/ribbon/lace/corsetry supplies etc.  But where is it today?  Hiding and sniggering at me I suppose.  I decided to just use some of the wadding I’m using for the collar.  Sorted!

So, inside is assembled, outside is assembled, the sleeves are in [that took some faff with getting those altered cuffs to line up into a neat point]. I just need to attach the two, and do the hem.

And the buttonhole openings on the facing. And stuff.  Good progress for one weekend though!

The back isn’t sitting quite right here, because with the collar being properly attached, it’s sliding back off her shoulders a little.  I think her face says it all though!