Posted on

Toile & Trouble: Dawn’s trousers #2

Scroll down to see more content

…so it seems that despite all those couture touches, good old Style Arc had the answer after all.

I dismantled the brown trousers, all but the front fly, which is pretty good, and laid the ‘Misty’ pattern over it, matching front fly only.

Look at how much excess there is!  The ‘Misty’ is a StyleArc size 12, the Vogue came out at about a 16 by their finished measurements, but blimey that’s a lot of fabric, even if they were described as ‘loose on the hips’…

I chopped it off, hesitating at the pockets, but, well, it’s just a toile.  I increased the existing 3/8″ seams to 5/8″ as I find stretch denim is not good with narrow seam allowances.  Snip snip, stitch stitch, and time for another fitting.

Much, much better.  I’d taped the Misty’s back yoke onto the main pattern piece and cut as one, but she still needs a little more length in the back seat for decency’s sake.  Very few drag lines or bagging other than under the bum, which will be dealt with in the same way, extending both crotch point and CB waistline just a bit.  The pockets need to be repositioned closer to the front now, the openings ended up too small for anything but Donald Trump’s hands, and we don’t want to encourage that.

More close fitting than she will want for most trousers, but very useful for me to see just what fits her closely- then I can tweak for different styles.  These may end up being mine as the fit is better, although I will need to add a sizeable yoke piece to bring them over my belly!

One more try needed-so I did the same re-cut on the purple ones, making the crotch and CB extension.  I allowed the equivalent of size 14 on these by adding another 1/4″ on main seams. I also made those flared legs into straight ones.

20 minutes later…

And I think we have it folks!  Not perfect, but good enough [she says there’s too much belly on display for pics I’m afraid, but there will be completed trouser pics as soon as possible].  Now I get to go ahead and make several improved versions.  hurrah!

 

20 thoughts on “Toile & Trouble: Dawn’s trousers #2”

  1. I’ve never had any luck with Vogue trousers, and I haven’t tried Style Arc. But I find that Burda works well for my narrow hipped/thick waisted torso. I need to add about 5cm to the rise (half at the lengthen line and half in the waistband), but other than that they are consistently good for me.

    So if you ever decide to go down this particular rabbit hole again, maybe Burda would be an option? The patterns on the website are pretty inexpensive, and they seem to have done every cut known to humanity at some point.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I may do so, although this has made me look back at trousers that I’ve made for myself and ponder. Mostly I wear the same few pairs of trousers for everyday, all Style Arc: ‘Linda’ stretch pull ons [granny trews I suppose, but simple, easy to wear, and I don’t tuck tops in so elastic waists make sense] and ‘Misty’ pull on jeans, and ‘Flat Bottom Flo’. I’ve realised that the thick waist/no hips shape requires a high rise, that fly fronts are usually pointless as I can shimmy throusers on and off without, that therefore elastic in some form is vital to hold the things up, and that a hacked flat bum adjustment is dead easy [chop about an inch of the back crotch point!] With four or five more Style Arcs not even tried yet, I don’t need to bother with more shapes…

      Like

  4. “the openings ended up too small for anything but Donald Trump’s hands, and we don’t want to encourage that.”
    Oh goodness – I laugh, but then I cry. XD

    I salute your perseverance. I got through one toile for a coat for my husband and then shamefully gave up. It’s been hanging in my sewing room and guilting me ever since.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. You have the patience of a saint. I would have run crying away from my machine by now. I hope that Dawn appreciates your efforts. I too was pissing myself laughing at the Donald Trump joke, although I wouldn’t want his tiny hands in my pockets either. Still haven’t tried Style Arc but their patterns always look very stylish. Have you ever made the freebie “Barb” trouser pattern? Xx

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I got the ‘Barb’ free download but as I already have 4 Style Arc trouser PDFs on the pile…they’ve been ignored for now! I think I need to graft those Laroche flares onto a pullon ‘Misty for myself…
      And I have close to NO patience, I’m notorious for it!

      Like

  6. Yup! that’s pretty much the same problem I had. I cut the toile/muslin. Tried it on and it was huge! I trimmed and trimmed the sides and it was okay. I laid a different slimmer pant pattern on it and it was almost identical so I chopped off the excess. I hope to be sewing them up during the week/weekend. I’ll be watching to see how your’s turn out! (PS You are so funny!)

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you! [I think lol] I suppose when it comes to trousers our different innies and outies make even more difference than with a dress or top…so some pattern companies are bound to be significantly better for individuals…

      Liked by 1 person

    1. I’ve traced round it today so hopefully I can bang out subsequent pairs with only tweaks for fabric type/pocket preferences etc. I will copy the shape of the Laroche trouser legss for myself as i think they’r e really nice, and I’m waiting for the day she gives me the go ahead to make her that jacket! I have the ‘matching’ Laroche dress pattern set aside for me…

      Liked by 1 person

  8. I made up the Barbs after getting the free download. Several times! They are a good standby trews pattern, but, I find all elastic waist patterns annoying. Too much gathering around the waist for me, yet cannot be made smaller and still get past my hips. I altered them to include a zip & darts, so they’re OK now. Next = pockets.

    Your trousers are looking good and are likely to be appreciated a great deal. Good trousers always are.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Elastic waist is fine for me as I don’t go in much above the hip! I must press on with the trousers- they’re currently dismantled ready to sew up properly [again]. So boring though!

      Like

  9. I made a dress for my niece with a Vogue pattern once, and it was a nightmare experience! I specifically bought a pattern that was adjustable for young ladies with teeny waists and ample busts, but the fit was ridiculous! It must have been at least 2 sizes too big.

    Thank goodness it was for a costume and she is extremely forgiving, because I just ended up nipping and tucking from the inside and that was that.

    No more Vogue patterns for me!

    I tried one pair of pants (trousers just sounds wrong to the Canadian ear) with moderate success. I will try again. I just wish I were more patient for stitching and unstitching to get the fit right!

    Like

    1. Fitting is a pain in the fundament! I adore Vogue Patterns, I have more of them than any other company, with Style Arc close behind. We’re all different though! The ‘Big Four’ costume patterns run notoriously massive, especially ‘corsets’ which are usually rather loose boned bodices!

      Like

      2. I just find that Vogue has more styles that appeal- I think I need more variety in my clothing diet than some! I like all the designer stuff, as well as the more bread and butter approach of some brands. StyleArc is always very up to date, and they bring out patterns all the time, instead of in collections

        Like

Comments are closed.