Vogue 1405 dress by Tracy Reese: “Pullover, lined dress has close-fitting, surplice front bodice, raised neckline extending into back collar, ruched midriff with stays, invisible back zipper, three-quarter length dolman sleeves, flared skirt and narrow hem. Purchased elastic, slides and rings for shoulder straps on bodice lining, and bias tape to finish zipper.”
Blimey. Lots of work there…
This pattern caught my eye as soon as it came out, despite the rather dreary fabric in the photo. I wavered, not sure if it’s really my style/shape, but eventually succumbed. I had no idea about fabric though-I hadn’t realised when I bought it that it’s for knit fabrics only. Bugger. And needs a stretch lining. Bugger again.
On a recent fabric shopping outing, I suddenly decided it needed to be red…but couldn’t find any fabric that appealed other than a rather pricey John Kaldor stretch woven, which probably wouldn’t work anyway.
And then…on the NEXT fabric buying outing, we spotted this ‘Liberty’ jersey [is it, isn’t it, I don’t know, but it feels lovely, looks great, and was a ruddy bargain at only £4/m.
I found some black jersey form stash for the ‘lining’ which turns out to actually be an attached slip, hence the lingerie notions. It’s one of those fancy schmancy patterns with LOTS of steps, instructions to do double stitched seams [meh, I over-locked where possible], top stitching etc etc.
OMG what a lot of work. What a lot of pieces! What a lot of basting!
When I looked on Pattern Review, it looks like everyone who made this changed quite a lot about it- I wanted the full experience, so followed the instructions [almost] to the letter. It assumes you’re using a sewing machine though, so there’s a lot of double stitching and trimming of seams in the search for a ‘couture’ clean finish inside. I used the overlocker wherever possible.
Construction starts off straightforward enough, joining the main bodice pieces, and you then break off and make up the top of the underslip. Proper stuff, with adjustable bra straps etc. You then mount the outer bodice onto that, and baste. Then you gather the waistband pieces, and mount them onto ‘stays’. Then you sandwich the joined bodices with the waistband and waistband lining. That’s a lot of layers at the front, because the front neckline is folded back and stitched down, gathered, and crossed over. About 8 layers, but it feels thicker because of the lining. Good job this fabric is super light and drapey!
THEN you assemble the outer skirt, and the gathered lining, and sandwich the bottom of the waistband between those. 5 layers with gathers…
THEN you are supposed to put a zip into the middle of the back [of course the skirt lining and all the other stitched down facings mean it cannot be done neatly, not to mention all the gathered waistband layers…]
THEN they want you to bind the mess the zip has made inside, and add lingerie straps before hemming both skirts.
Well, I got as far as wrestling the zip in by hand [no way I was going to let the machine chew up all that fabric and have to unpick it several times.]
At this point, I tried it on. Of course, it pulls on without needing the zip at all, so that came back out again, and the CB is just overlocked. I don’t do raw hems, so faffed with that to get it nice and neat. Et voila!
Messy zip insides…
I think it’s BEAUTIFUL. According to Vogue, and their weird bodyshape system, this is one of their patterns which is not suitable for my bodyshape [rectangular]. Sorry Vogue, I think this is absolutely great on me, I felt all slinky and shapely as soon as I got in front of the mirror. I’m VERY proud of this pairing of fabric and pattern, I think it’s way better than the dowdy brown version on the pattern photograph. I’m really glad I looked closely at the line drawing. To all the people who messed with this design, changing the sleeves, changing the neckline, changing the skirt- more fool you!
I love Reece’s to PIECES!
That euphorbia’s peeking up my skirt. Disgraceful!
THIS bellky ruching, I like!