Onwards, onwards. Now for the red, straight skirted version, with three quarter sleeves, and turn back cuffs. And a detachable peplum. Why not?
The fabric is very odd- thick, almost felt-like, it looks very much like wool, feels like wool, but burns like
a bitch polyester. Oddly, despite fighting me when pressing seams, it allowed me to steam it into shape beautifully for the collar and shaped sleeve. Weird.
The sleeve is a beauty, despite that flattish armscye, and is shaped with three little darts at the elbow, giving that lovely vintage curved sleeve shape that is so satisfying! The bodice was a doddle, although I made life harder for myself by refusing to recut the facings when I did the FBA, and just patched some scraps on to the bottom to lengthen them. Meh.
The cuffs and half-circle peplum looked set to be rather bulky, so I lined them both with a bit of plain black lining from stash. I would have preferred red, but all my usual reds are more blue-toned than this tomato red! The buttons are black, so I wasn’t too bothered.
I had to be very careful to get the waistline exactly right on this one, because of that detachable peplum. This meant quite a lot had to be lopped off. Here it is thread marked.
Easy construction again, after I recut one skirt panel: this was another detail to feedback on the testing front- the pattern is multisize, but the ‘cut away for left hand side’ line was only intended for the smallest size. The instruction drawing this to my attention was on page twenty-something. Joy. Good job it’s cheap stuff, and I had plenty!
The skirt has a generous kick pleat at the back, nicely constructed. There are darts at the back waist, two each side, and little pleats on the front. Normally this would be something I’d ditch, and I don’t need much shaping over my flat bum, so usually leave out rear darts. As I want to wear this over the corset though, I need the shaping!
The cuffs tried to fight me- thick fabric, cuffs, cuff facing, seam allowances. Meh. I pinked the **** out of it, and steamed like mad. The turn of cloth made the lining try to creep back over the edge, so I did some surreptitious hand sewing to tame it. And swore. That always works for me.
Then buttonholes, a handpicked side zip, and more kneeling wifey to get the hem right.
The missus says it reminds her of Fanny Ardant in ‘8 Women’. Trust me folks, that’s a helluva compliment!
Buttons are vintage-looking, from the Rag Market, and the buckle is actual vintage, from eBay, 5 various styles for a fiver. Nice!
**Again, finished months ago, but only got the pics today. the peplum belt had clearly slipped a bit, but I didn’t spot it til after I’d got back into mufti, so I’m sorry for that! A very warm and cosy dress, and I do like the silhouette [to my surprise]. I’m concerned it might be way TOO warm and cosy in a heated environment though. We shall see.
And with the detachable peplum
The corset does a pretty good job