StyleArc Ziggi jacket #2
Zips. Zips. Zips.
*huge sigh*
Why oh why do I never bother to read anything on Pattern Review until AFTER I finish, or hit a snag? Ah well.
Now, there are a lot of pieces in this jacket, plus zip pockets, sleeve zips, and a diagonally set front opening zip. I bought the zips at the market months ago, nothing special, just plastic zips in a relatively OK shade of beige. As I’ve moved through the cut out pile, and it’s been shifted round and round the room, these damn zips have fallen off the pile, out of boxes, and generally been underfoot a million times. They ended stuffed into a drawer. Until now…
Because of the number of pattern pieces, I decided to try to more or less follow the pattern instructions [VERY sparse], adding in some common sense touches and a bit of production line sewing [glance through instructions, pin everything that can be pinned, sew the lot, press, and assemble all the bits]
Wifey wanted just the shoulder yokes quilted, and just vertical lines, so I chalked them on, and quilted it using a scrap of the felt-like fabric from the 1950s peplum dress. Final result, very satisfactory!
Pockets came in at about step 4, and apart from attaching pocket facings the SENSIBLE way [turn under seam allowance and edgestitch down] I just zoomed them in. Then looked again. Re-read the instructions several times, re-read the notions list. Yes, the pockets are supposed to have zips, no, there is NO MENTION of zips in the instructions. I hit the internet. Well, yes, after the fact, this is me. Quite a few mentions of the lack of instructions for inserting zips, plus a couple of good tutorials [I like Shams’ the best]. However, StyleArc only allow 3/8″ seam allowance, I’d already trimmed and understitched the ruddy pocket bags on.
BUGGER!
I pondered, swore, pondered. Showed the work so far to the missus, who suggested ‘just sew the zips in the space’. She survived, just.
We decided not to bother, I can always make another one [for me, for me] with the zips added. I sent StyleArc a stern message though. Would it be so hard, given that this has been on the market for EONS, to just amend the pattern or add a warning slip to each pack? I think not. *Wags finger sternly*


While hunting for the tutorials, I saw some for inserting a sleeve gusset behind the zips. Then I noticed warnings about zip sizes not being spot on in the instructions. I flinched, and looked at my zips again. Good grief Fairy!
I’d bought a 22″ heavy duty plastic zip at the market, maybe because that’s all there was [the Rag Market is amazing, but for fancy specialised zips, the internet is better!] The space for the zip is 20″. My fault. Dammit.
That would have been bad enough, but I’d not noticed that all the short zips are ruddy INVISIBLE ones. Jeez. So I hit t’internet, and browsed for ages on the McCulloch & Wallis page. Chose zips, including the end post thingies to shorten metal zips cos none are the right length. To the checkout. TWENTY FIVE SQUID FOR THREE ZIPS?? Er no. eBay to the rescue, three simpler zips on the way for about £7. Much better. What to do while I wait for delivery?
I’d already decided not to machine topstitch, because my top stitching skills are poor to say the least, the fabric is light and unforgiving, and I like adding little special touches to clothes for the missus. Also, it allowed me to do a fitting partway through assembly, which was good, as it needed quite a bit of finessing to give it a waist at the right height for my little missus! The size 18 fits beautifully across her broad shoulders, skims her hips as a jacket should, but floated several inches away from her waist. Easily fixed.

And now for the top stitching…

Love the top stitching. Oh yes!
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It’s all your fault- I would never have got into it if it wasn’t for that pesky Kate!
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Hand sewn top stitching? Nice! This is shaping up nicely, even with zipperly mishaps.
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It was, but now I’m having sleeve repercussions form the tweaks to fit the body….
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Ouch. Though, while it might not be nice to say, I am quite happy that such mishaps happen to you as well – even with all your sewing. It is quite nice to not feel alone in the cascading effects of perfecting the fit in one area. That said, it would be much better if one could be without!
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Argh how frustrating. I’d have given up completely I think…well done you for persevering. I am taking careful notes from you and Ruth for if I ever tackle this one myself.
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How frustrating (putting it politely) What is it about pattern manufacturers and missing out instructions? I’ve just finished sewing Vogue 8801. It’s a pair of jeans for my other half. I dutifully followed the instructions, or I should say tried to follow them but improvised when I noticed at no point did the instructions tell me to put the front left pocket together, great details for the right but zilch for the left. I wondered that because the pattern was labelled ‘average’ that they assumed I’d automatically know I’d have to do it, silly really because yes, I did suss it out, kind of difficult not to really, however, that idea is flawed. Flawed because although I can boldly claim I have ‘average’ 😬 sewing skills these jeans were an adventure for me because I usually sew dresses, not a pair of trousers in sight so perhaps I should only claim to be a beginner when it comes to sewing trousers. Having bought a Vogue pattern I was disappointed by the lack of complete instructions. Have you come across Vogue patterns having left a whole stage out?
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I’ve always had great experiences with Vogue [once I stopped buying patterns that were way beyond me, as a noob lol] They are my absolute favourites, closely followed by StyleArc. And I’m pleased to say that StyleArc just came through with a great response to my complaint. More shortly…
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Would love to know if they’ve given you a shocked, surprised, contrite or other emotional response. To have left out so many zip insertions on an obviously Zippy garment is ludicrous. On another note your hand stitched top stitch is beautiful. A real couture touch. 😊
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Thanks- Dawn loves the topstitching too, it really accentuates all those seams…and way more nicely than my crappy machine stitching would have done!
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Oh, I’m swooning over that topstitching…..
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Thanks! It didn’t even take as long as I expected it to. Then again, I’m not very precise!
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OMG I machine topstitch because my hand stitching is sooo bad! Your topstitching is fabulous! (I can’t believe there were no instructions for zippers – although your pockets did turn out lovely!)
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I just don’t have the patience to faff with machine stitching- top and understitching are sooooo much easier by hand [and fast] especially round odd shapes and corners. You know all those ‘understitch as far as possible’ instructions? No trouble by hand, do the lot.
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Yes, by hand you could fit in all the corners and tight spots!
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And it looks so COOL. Go on, try it. Hand stitching only improves wit practice, and it’s so QUICK
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Yes, ok, practice makes perfect. I get it! 😁👍
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I’m in awe of the hand topstitching! You spoil her Fairy 😉
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she’s worth it- as you well know x
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