Oki-style Sasha skirt, purple/green cotton plaid
Here are the pics from the website
Oki is apparently a Mongolian designer, living and working in Germany. Her style is quirky, interesting, and has a Japanese feel to it to my eye. I think this skirt also has a touch of the Westwoods about it, hence my choice of tartan.
I opted to make it up as shown, but not bothering with the back pocket or belt loops. I didn’t mess with the length either, I quite like a longer skirt lately.
The instructions are a little tricky to follow- they are in German and English, but the two languages are interwoven. I had to highlight all the English to have a hope of following it. Most of it is well translated with the odd bit of confusion here or there. There are photographs to follow, but I really prefer line drawings personally.
This caused some problems! It’s designed to look as though it’s been made from a pair of trousers, so that curved ‘crotch’ seam dominates the cut. It took some care not to end up with glaringly bad pattern clashing there. I managed a pretty good match at CF, because that zip edge is straight of course…the back isn’t, and I went for ‘good enough’.
First you make those flounces- lots of teeny narrow hems, time consuming, but I’m getting pretty slick. They are all cut from different size ‘donuts’, and shaped to have curved ends . Easier than it sounds. You attach the diagonal flounces to the oddly shaped skirt panels first. Then, you turn under the curved part, overlay one piece over the other and topstitch down.
That’s where I got confused. I tried to bring the diagonal edges down to meet the lower part of the straight skirt pieces. Things got weird. I unpicked, thought about it, and did it again. I tried it on, adjusted the darts a little, and then put it to one side while I made up the lining.
The lining panels are cut from the straight skirt pieces. This confused me, as my interpretation of the skirt seams didn’t really leave much room at the hem…and then I noticed that the lower flounce is only attached to the lining. I stopped again, baffled, and went back to those pattern photos. And of course, could see at once that the bottom flounce is not attached to the main skirt, it comes from underneath…and the diagonal bits must just be hanging loose. Odd, as then the only thing hiding the lining is the flounce hanging over it at that point.
Muttering and deliberation.
The instructions say to attach the flounce to the lining ‘right sides together’. So is the lining supposed to go in with its right side facing the wrong side of the main skirt? raw edges exposed inside? How odd. I decided to contrive a way to try to get a cleaner finish than that. Fortunately, I’d found an oddment of a nice petrol taffeta which looks good with the plaid, so I won’t mind if the lining does flash a bit at times.
I went with felled seams at CF and CB. The side seams are just pinked, as they won’t show anyway. I bound other seams and hems according to whim and the likelihood of them being visible. I was delighted to find oddments of seam ribbon and self-made bias that went beautifully with the green tones in the tartan.
On the interminably long hem flounce, I did a narrow rolled hem which took over two hours to do, and did a weird sort of felled/lapped seam finish. I folded and finger pressed a narrow seam allowance on each edge, one folding towards me and one folding away. I sort of hooked them together, and stitched down on each edge. Nice and neat, and not bulky.
I messed with the lining and skirt and flounce until I thought I’d got a nice length of flounce, then stitched it to the lining. Once lining and skirt body were together, on went the waistband, and done. Instructions for the waistband are more detailed than for any other part of the thing- very odd. So I got the waistband all attached, tried it on…and took it off again. It’s ended up with a nice flat petersham waist facing, much more comfortable, especially stitched by hand so it’s a softer edge- not so much to dig into my flab!
Anyway, here it is. Should I take the side flounce off or give myself time to get used to the excess?