Now normally I love sleeves, don’t see any problem with setting them and so on…but when I got ready to cut this coat out, I realised that it had a CRAP sleeve pattern. I really don’t like one piece sleeves for coats and jackets any more. Once you’ve seen the delight of a gently curved two piece sleeve, nothing else will do. And it’s CASHMERE FFS, why slouch?
So I decided to audition some sleeves to see which would do.
#1 Truly Victorian riding jacket pattern.
I love this jacket so much, so out it came, and I measured the armscye and sleeve head. More than three inches of difference! The modern one being the longer of the 2…
Look at how gentle the curve is on the Victorian pattern, and how sharp the curve on M7848. Such a lot of difference. I remembered that historical sleeve patterns fit much higher under the arm, not great for an over coat, so abandoned that one. On to candidate 2.
#2: The Simplicity 1732 Arkivestry coat I made for the other half.
GREAT sleeves. Very gathered of course, so I pleated out the excess, and scientifically smooshed the 3D pattern flat. Comparison- very close sleeve head fit and sleeve width.
But smooshed. So I rummaged and came up with another possibility.
#3: McCall’s 7456
A costume jacket, with interesting style lines totally invisible on the [of course] black fabric of the cover photo. Being the same brand, it’s drafted from the same basic blocks, so, voila! A near-perfect match for the sleeve head, left and right
At the cuff, not so great but more easily fixable
So there we are, a hybrid coat it shall be.
I also did a tissue fit and decided that despite the Women’s sizing of the coat pattern [18W, finished bust 44″] an FBA would help, To avoid the mahoosive side dart usually produced, I went for my first attempt at a Y shaped FBA.
Look away you obsessive pernickety tracers of patterns! I CUT THE TISSUE AND SELLOTAPED IT TO WALLPAPER LINING! Quick and easy lol. That’s added in a nice 3″ to bust and waist, so I’m good to go. I’ve even hunted down an old duvet cover for interlining, and a remnant of red stretch denim for the bodice underlining to give it some oomph…it does have to survive a zip front after all.
And there we are, January the first, good to start cutting.
But first, I’m off to the local ‘everyman’ cinema for the first time, to see ‘The Favourite’. Rachel Weisz, phoo-er missus!