M7848 long coat, red cashmere
I took forever getting this cut out, as my relaxation levels were very high throughout the Xmas break, and sewjo accordingly low. I don’t suffer from the existential dread some sewers seem to experience at the thought of cutting into good cloth, I just couldn’t be bothered!
Anyway, I eventually got it all done, even the interfacing and disassembling the toile to use as underlining and as a pattern for the bits I altered. [Reminder- I’m using a stretch denim remnant for the bodice, an old duvet cover for the rest]
I suffered the delights of cutting into the astrakhan fur fabric and having my whole cutting area covered in fine black fluff, which I carefully swept up into my dustpan, then dropped before getting it 2″ to my right and into a bag. Sigh. Rinse and repeat.
Lots of interfacing duly applied- although I don’t bother fusing the whole ruddy thing, because, underlining dahlinks- I did interface collar, cuffs [or ‘lower sleeves’ as referred to here]and front facings to support the zip.
Then some hand basting to attach all the underlining to the main fabric, then lots of pinning to assembly line as much of the thing as I could. I have a LOT of pins, have you seen how big my pincushion is? And I use ALL the faces. So, a lot of sewing. All done in one fell swoop, cos that’s how I roll innit? So that was the quick bit.
Then a rest, followed by some serious pressing. Hurrah for silk organza pressing cloth, ancient sleeve board, and tailor’s ham!
And the next slow? Catch stitching all those seam allowances down, after trimming away the excess underlining from the seam allowances to reduce bulk a tiny bit. This cashmere is thick and spongy like felt so is lovely to stitch, but I have to be careful not to pull my stitches too tight as that thickness will cause puckering and messiness. This is one of those rare projects worth taking at least a LITTLE time over!
The lining is of course VERY fray-able so I pinked the seams there to minimise possible disaster on seams.
Next up, more pinning, more sewing, more catch stitching…
Meanwhile, I succumbed to more temptation. Shirts on the horizon, pirate print and the teal print for me, crisp white stretch poplin for the missus. Yum.