What is she on about? You ask. Well, I vaguely remember this being a favourite phrase back when I was in 6th form, I think it came from some torrid bodice-ripper someone was reading, and the ‘paroxysms of purple passion’ that were described. We decided that to be on the safe side, we should all get some purple passion pants, so as not to be found wanting. Or something. [y’know, all girls school, we were obsessed…]
So, when I decided to make some Greenstyle ‘Chelsea’ trousers, and opted for my purple ponte, the combination of trousers [NOT pants], purple, and 70s styling, took me right back.
So, purple passion pants!
Now I started this post back at the beginning of December, when I cut out loads of goodies, and then just kept pushing them back down the pile. I made up a pair of these for the missus [back when I also made her the Jalie unitard and the Moxie shorts, all unblogged because she said they were too revealing for pics], which looked cute on her, but I haven’t seen her actually wear them, so not a great success.
A few weeks ago, I decided to assemble the cute little ‘tulip’ shaped pockets, which are fiddly but not difficult, and then got irritated as usual by my sub-standard top-stitching, and put them aside again. I dig out some sparkly embroidery thread thinking I could hand stitch an edge feature, but didn’t do that either.
Yesterday, I suddenly remembered that perhaps the new fabulous Pfaff might work better for top-stitching on stretch fabric, so had a go. Oh joy! Kalloo kallay!
Look at this! [not pressed yet so those tiny puckers at the corners will steam out no fuss]
The trousers are simple to make, and I added a wider elastic into the wasitband than the pattern requires, as I like to feel them SNUG round my fat middle or else they shimmy down past my hips…so they looks a bit odd here unstretched, but fine pulled to my flab width
They look great on my bum, I’m happy there…BUT. WTF is happening at the front? I can’t be bothered to take pics of them on right now, but I’m getting the exact same issue I had with the last trousers I made- masses of excess fabric making vertical folds across the front crotch. I spent ages last night googling trouser fitting adjustments and found nothing…loads and loads of ways to allow belly room, flat bum adjustments, horizontal folds etc.
The only think remotely alike was this
which is from a post by Cation designs on trouser fitting.
It results in a pattern change like this
So it looked like a lot of faff to do some pinning, dismantle the trousers, re position the crotch curve [which is what this looks to perform] then re cut and resew.
I sulked.
Then I realised I really need to sort this because it’s exactly what’s wrong with these too

So I sulked some more, and pondered and cogitated.
What trousers do I normally wear? Several versions of good old Style Arc ‘Linda’ the first Style Arc pattern I ever tried. I happen to have some cut out in navy ponte, so I compared the two front crotch curves.
GOOD GRIEF!
The Greenstyle one is underneath [the red line is the size I previously cut for the missus] and the ‘Linda’ is on top.
No wonder I have miles of fabric flapping about. Seriously, there’s room here for several sets of MAN lunch let alone lady lunch.
So, these need to be mostly unpicked [dammit, overlocking] re cut, and reassembled. Any flapping after that will just be bloody well covered with a tunic!
Maybe if I master these, I can salvage the Mimi G ones, the voluminous ‘Daisy’ ones from last year, etc etc. The Crate of Shame contents could reduce slightly and I will wear more than one pair of trousers for work…
I had the same issue with my version of the Gertie cigarette pants. However I managed to get a good fit with the Ginger jeans and a minor adjustment. I’ll use these as a guide from now on.
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I wanted some variety…but I think I just need to stick to the’Linda’ after so many successes with that. and abject failures elsewhere. Too much ‘fannying about’ lol
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Very helpful comparison – thanks for sharing it. Awhile back I was trying to make a pair of shorts that didn’t look like a 1980s disaster. Comparing the crotch with some decent fitting RTW, I discovered nearly the same thing. The pattern had a whole lot of extra room there. So I now use a crotch curve adapted from that RTW pair (that looks a lot like the Linda photo). I have to wonder about the drafting of some of these patterns. Do they ever try them on a live human?
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That’s quite a difference! I was going to suggest shortening the front crotch but what you’ve got going on there is a completely different shape. Amazing.
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I know! And yet on the Greenstyle page they all look VERY snugly fitted…am I the only one that hasn’t gone for a RTW size lol
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Love your posts. So funny, and thanks for sharing also “issues” with fitting. I have horrible troubles fitting, and can get very frustrated. I think you have found the issue. But, maybe you could pull up at yoke bottom, in a pinch. The pants are very attractive, on the table, and love the colour, style, and pocket. Cathie near Montreal (When very frustrated with sewing Retail Therapy helps – Friday another trip to edge of Garment District, for much “needed” spring/summer fabrics).
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Thank you! I never post only my successes, it’s all as it happens, no fakery or sponsorships happening here, just me, warts and all! I think unpicking is the only way, but I’m currently distracted as we just bought tickets to see Tears for Fears and Alison Moyet THIS TUESDAY…SQUEEEEE
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OMG man/lady lunch!
LMAO
Too funny I’ve never heard that phrase
before & totally lost what little sense I may have still had.
Thank you so much for that picture in my poor sawdust brain.
I guess I must pack a picnic basket because its a problem I’ve never had with fitting trousers. I usually need more room in the rear for my curvaceous bum. I don’t like when I sit & my pants slide down & back and beyond gets drafty.
Hope you get your trouser trials sorted soon.
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I’m sorry for putting my lunch in your brain lol I’m hoping that when I can be bothered to sit and unpick them, the fix will be fast and efficient…wait and see!
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Thanks… now I’m sitting here singing about “my lovely lady lunch” to the tune of ‘My Humps’. 🙂
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As so you should. Most apt for a Monday morning lol
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Good grief! That is a ridiculous difference in front crotch drafting. No wonder you had such excess fabric! I have never seen a pair of trousers with a CF seam like the Greenstyle ones. Mind you, I don’t sew many indie patterns, but wow!
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I avoid them [I cannot understand why so many noobs to sewing head for these indies and won’t touch the established companies, very weird] but the pics of these tickled my fancy for some good old 70s flares. I plan to look like Huggy Bear when they’re done!
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I traced off a pair of RTW jeans that fit me some years ago now, and have widened and altered them to continue to fit me. I haven’t touched a woven pants pattern since then, because it’s just not worth my time. I have a pair that fit. Life is short.
That post, that series of pants fitting posts on Cation Designs was my second introduction to Cindy (the first being the Titanic sewing challenge), and she’s just all that and a bag of those extra marshmallows you take out of the Lucky Charms. When I get stuck, I go back and I read those. Y’all should, too.
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lol I’ve never eaten lucky charms, and hate marshmallows, but I get the picture rofl
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Bodies are very strange things and unfortunately don’t come wrapped in a box all the same shape. Is it any wonder patterns particularly for trousers are so hit and miss. Hope the crotch curve solves your problem.
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Maybe check any new trouser patterns against the Linda – you know she fits. I love the purple pants (sorry, you know I’m only saying it coz it drives you had 😂) . I hope the adjustment turns them into perfect Huggy Bear pants 😁
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I hope you get it sorted–the paper pattern drawings look almost too crotch-clingy to be comfortable to me, but they didn’t translate that way…um, in your pants. Good luck with it!
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Love those pockets even if they do seem to be fiddly. I tend to alter every crotch I sew too – just compare them to a pair of jeans that fit well. I find if I leave the crotch as per the design, there is a huge amount of flappy fabric there.
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