McCall’s 6436 shirt, black stretch cotton poplin, fancy ‘silver’ buttons. Pretty much straight out of the packet, D cup front, no darts in back, and shortened a little. I also reduced the cuff size as I have fairly skinny wrists! I used the Folkwear Frontier shirt placket as usual.
Very straightforward, despite the sewing machine deciding to fight me on this one. I cleared all the fluff out of the machine before I started sewing, and suspect I may not have bedded the bobbin case in properly, as it was stitching erratically for a while. I took it all out again, changed the needle, cursed a bit…and it’s working again. Good old sewing gods.
I’m playing about with some black lace and trim, as my theme here is meant to be embellishment, but I’m really loving the stark plainness of this with the fancy buttons, so may leave it alone. Plans schmans.
On to the Donna Karan, Vogue 2813. I’ve made this twice before, once for me, once for the missus, but neither of us fit in them any longer! I’ve graded it out a bit from the existing largest size  and basically took away all the waist shaping. What’s a waist again? I omitted front AND back darts, although I may be persuaded to put back ones in once I’ve worn it a time or two.
This is a more complicated shirt than the McCall’s, although it has a cut-on placket, it’s also a CONCEALED placket so you fold a bit under, then do the buttonholes close to the edge, then fold the whole caboodle inside, then back out again, and stitch along the fold. Yeah I know.
I cut the under collar [two pieces] in the tattoo fabric, and the bias upper collar in plain black. It’s beautifully drafted, and you get a gorgeous 3-d collar curve. You sew 2 buttonholes into the under collar only, to button the collar down, as all the buttons on this baby are hidden when you wear it. I still chose fancy buttons, a secret pleasure!
The sleeves are sewn in flat, as this has a dropped shoulder seam, then sleeves and side seams are sewn in one. All seams are French seams. I like the way the drop shoulder and contrast sleeves make this look like a short sleeved shirt over actual tattooed arms…
Another lovely gentle curve to the hem, more button sewing, plus ‘French tacks’ to hold the placket closed over the buttons, et voilá!
Weather and late evenings at work have delayed lots of pics for my recent sewing [I definitely need daylight for black garments], so I’ll be doing the lot in one go- sorry for duplicates! I’m currently struggling with severe hip pain, and I suspect that the one which has been twice operated on needs more work. I had to be sent home from work this week [and with Ofsted in as well, not good]. The GP sent me for xrays , and meanwhile I’m on tramadol…I’m amazed I didn’t sew my hands into these shirts!