World Book Day 2020 is NEXT WEEK [I’ve been telling myself I’ve got lots of time eek] so I thought I’d better get to grips with my ‘Gentleman Jack’ inspired costume. I wavered between greatcoat and pelisse or spencer for a while, but eventually settled for these as my main inspiration
Laughing Moon #137 pelisse. Fabric is a ‘cotton blend’ from The Italian Textile Company on eBay, one of my great favourites. It is described in their usual fabulously detailed and mis-spelled style:
PRODUCED FOR THE VERY HIGH END MANUFACTURER
THESE VERY BEAUTIFUL SPECIALLY FINISHED FABRIC WITH A PERFECTLY BALANCED CONSTRUCTION A LUXURIOUS MILL FINISH TO ENHANCE THE WHOLE QUALITY
JUST WHAT YOU WOULD EXPECT FROM A TOP ITALIAN TEXTILE,
EASY CARE MACHINE WASH AT 30* DEGREES
I’m always amused by their use of ‘viscous’ but you can really trust their descriptions of weight, texture and drape. Not cheap of course, and only sold in half metre units which you have to be careful of! I guessed at 4.5 metres, and have just about managed to get it all pinned out, as I shortened it quite a lot…I don’t know how tall LM think an average woman is, but I don’t normally have to remove 6-7″ of length, even though I’m a short-arse!
This is an AMAZINGLY good value for money pattern, as there are so many combos of all the bits possible to you. I’ve opted, after much deliberation, to pretty much do view B [the red one]. I’ll dispense with the little train, because…school lol The puffed over sleeves are slit and trimmed with bows..which I have cut out, but may not use, we’ll see. I particularly love the dramatic flared standing collar.
Underneath this delight I will be wearing a longish black skirt, and a full-sleeved shirt or jumper…and if I have time this weekend, I may get on with my corset/waistcoat to channel this iconic look:
The missus found me some plain cotton string to use for some cording. It’s very HA to have tons of cording at this time, but we’ll see how much I can apply in the time allowed! I sdon’t think there’s enough of the main fabric to cut much bias, so may have to use a contrasting satin or some such… I need to rummage for something to line it with as well, although it may end up only being the bodice for now if I don’t have sufficient yardage.
PLUS I need to pither about to see what I can contrive for the hairstyle…
I’ll pinch the wife’s top hat [don’t tell her] and we have a fob watch from our steampunk excursions. Wish me luck, I’m going in!
That looks cool and interesting.
Pattern companies seem to think that the average woman is anything from 5’5″ (Liesl & Co and Colette among others) to 5’9″ (Sew to Grow and Megan Nielsen and others) – lists available from the Fold Line here: https://thefoldline.com/2019/03/09/the-sewing-pattern-tutorials-10-choosing-a-sewing-pattern-for-your-body-shape/ and https://csews.com/sewing-2/sewing-pattern-height – I pay attention as I’m only 5’1″ with long legs and short torso; it makes a difference – hacking 7″ out of a bodice doesn’t usually leave it looking much as originally designed.
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Yeah I’m 5’3 and usually adjust skirt lengths but this was MASSIVE so I assume they are thinking 5’9″ is average [bonkers] Then again, heel height plays a part I suppose. It does look interesting, and who knows, may even be wearable in real life as it is all black. Could be taken as being a bit goth maybe?
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Thanks for the links. I bought an Angela Kane Jeans pattern 948 on offer. I have a long body and short legs, but this is drafted for 36″ legs. How many women have 36″ inside leg? Mine are 28″ so I had to hack an enormous amount off the pattern – no lengthen/shorten lines and the knee level is not marked. I think that lists also need to say how much ‘extra’ ease the pattern companies add. The Angela Kane had an enormous amount and I have given up on Vogue as, if I buy a paper pattern I don’t want to have to trace crappy thin paper a number of times to alter it like the pic
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THIRTY SIX INSIDE LEG?? Blimey. I only ever tried one Angela Kane pattern- a shirt. It too was huge so I just abandoned it. Personally, I love Vogue, but it does depend on what sort of styles you prefer. I never trace patterns anyway, but just like the fact that tissue takes less space!
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Such an exciting make – looking forward to how it turns out. The Italian translation amuses me too. My parents bought a guidebook once in Italy in a coastal town, which had some amazing translations in the English including “suggestive cliffs” (the mind boggles) and “very fishy seas” (err?).
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fab!
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Looking forward to seeing your outfit. Maybe find some sausage curls to attach to the top hat? I have to read more about World Book Day.
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That looks like it’s going to be beautifully swishy.
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hope so- can’t beat a good swish!
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That fabric is just crying out to be touched. Very beautiful … and the quality! I’m looking forward to spying on this project as it goes along! 😁👍
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All the fabrics I’ve had from The Italian Textile Company have been delicious. Superb quality, fabulous textures. Highly recommended!
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I’m going to have to go back and have a look 👀
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Fun, fun, fun! Can’t wait to see this done 😁
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spent HOURS two nights running cutting it all out and finding suitable linings…this thing has a MILLION pieces. Pondering now where to put piping, and also how to finish insides quickly, appropriately, and pleasingly lol [HA is just to hand overcast raw edges but I don’t have time for that!]
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Overlocker?
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some but I don’t really like overlocked finish except in knits…personal taste!
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