SWA(SP)P 2016-Wildcards-#5: Riding breeches

Having spent many hours fiddling about with the parasol, and then fiddling about getting the skirt draperies to go together properly, and then another hour or so cutting out carefully measure pinked strips to make the trim for the skirt draperies…I wanted to get on with something straightforward.

‘apron’ drape attached to mini lining

The waist pleats hand sewn to a narrow waistband

Teaser shot of the untrimmed, but fully assembled overskirt

And so, the riding breeches toile came back to the top of the heap.  I graded it in an inch or so both sides, tapered a little out of the bum, and voila!  All good, except now the knees were too tight.  How odd.  So I made the appropriate annotations on the toile, and we’re off!

Toile disassembled, pressed, fabric steamed well, and all cut out.  It’s a beautiful lofty wool twill, with a lovely bounce to it.  I used my lovely pinking shears too, to reduce fraying as I sew.

breeches cut out…and that selvage. Yum!

The toile will become the underlining, and I’ll have another layer of cotton to line so thta no itchy wool can get at my skin.  The pattern has a false waistband with belt loops, and it’s just faced with a bias strip of something smooth, the pattern suggests sateen.  No idea what, there will be something in stash.  It will be a nice opportunity to use something a bit mad perhaps…

The pockets are faced, and I will trim them with some of the gorgeous selvage from this fabric.  MUCH too nice to end up in the bin.  I will probably use some to trim a hat as well.

Some of the pattern pieces have to be cut from measurements- nothing complicated, just belt loops etc.  I had wondered why the calf measurement seemed so scanty [I do NOT have large calves thank you very much] and was contemplating elastic inserts…but it seems I have to face the openings as they are, then add a 2″ wide button stand.  I may still go with the elastic/ribbing as I plan to wear these with knee high boots in any case.

I read the instructions carefully, as these trousers have a lot of period details, and little quirks like the way the pockets are set.  I couldn’t find anything about the side fastenings, although the instructions are very detailed.  I read them again.  Nope.  Now I know I’m a numpty, so I read through several MORE times, but there is definitely nothing at all.  The trousers are supposed to fasten on both sides with buttons, but even the diagrams don’t help me.

I did some googling.  Nowt.  Nothing on the website acknowledging an omission, nothing on Pattern Review, nothing anywhere [although when I scrolled down far enough I did find a picture of me.  Quite disconcerting…]

So off I bopped to Reconstructing History’s Face Book page, and got an answer withing minutes.

Here it is:

I can help. Hang on and let me consult my notes. I know the original upon which I based them were buttoned, but let me check for more info.

 

brilliant thanks!

 

Yup. I tell you where to stop (at point A) on the side seam when you’re sewing the Fronts to the Backs, but I don’t tell you what to do after that. Sorry!

 

I have my originals here in front of me and they have three buttonholes on the Fronts above point A and three buttons on the back above point A on both sides. There is also a buttonhole and button on the waist band on each side. So four buttons/buttonholes total.

 

The pocket that you put into the fronts in that slit that’s 2″ from the edge stays with the fronts, if you see what I mean.

 

You only need an opening on one side, but if you only make one side functional, I’d still put buttons on the other side so they look balanced.

 

Does that help or did I confuse you?

Very prompt and helpful, but I’ve asked for some pics as I can visualise the finished look, just not quite how to get there, mainly in finishing and reinforcing the fronts to make the buttonholes tidy…and you know I’m scared of buttonholes.

I’ll let you know how I get on.

Now I’m off to do some more cutting out, so that I will have some choices in what to sew during the week…