SWA(SP)P 2016-Pack 2-#2: Toile and Trouble

Last night I cut out the pattern pieces for the Truly Victorian#420 ‘cuirasse bodice’.  THIS time, I read the instructions properly, and did all the calculations to choose the correct size pieces.  I’m afraid that, rebel that I am, on the green jacket [TV462] I just went by corseted bust and waist sizes, and opted for the pattern size that best approximated to them.  And then I had all those alterations to make after the fact.  Sigh.

Well, these special sizing instructions come straight after those standard diagrams showing you how to measure yourself.  OBVIOUSLY I know that, so didn’t look any closer.  

Well not huge, but it took long enough!

Truly Victorian point out that their system doesn’t equate to any other, and to pay attention.  Well, good teacher=bad student in most cases I fear, and I paid the price.

This is what I SHOULD have done.

You probably can’t make it all out, but you measure your back width, and choose the back pattern pieces to match.  You then follow the chart to find your ‘adjusted back width’, subtract it from your bust measurement to get your ‘adjusted front’ measurement, and choose your front pattern piece accordingly.  You measure your ‘armhole’ [armscye] measurement, and choose the sleeve size for that.

This gave me I for the back, G for the front, and F for the sleeve.  Last time I cut all G I think. Remember how I had to let out all the seam allowances, then take the front darts in…makes sense now!Mind you, size charts are different for the 2 patterns, as the period silhouette is slightly different…if I was going for historical accuracy, I’d need a different corset.  This style is also not meant to go with a bustle.  We’ll see!

I’m cutting out very slightly larger for the front piece, but transferring the stitching lines for G.  I also need to make a toile for the skirt.  I’m self drafting [sounds posh but isn’t].  The skirt is more or less a rectangle for the front, darted or pleated at the waist if needed, and a semicircle for the back.  I may make it slightly less full.  As I’m undecided about the bustle, I’ll cut it slightly longer at centre back.

Speaking of bustles, I’m itching to make one of these beauties, a ‘lobster tail bustle’

Isn’t it GAWJUS?  The article on how to make it is from ‘A Damsel in This Dress’. What a brilliant blog title!  [Kate, tempted?]

This bustle may not be used for this particular outfit, and anyway, in true steampunk style, it may deserve to be worn on the outside of another outfit in due course…

I was awake at 4am today, in my menopausal way, and spent some fruitful yawning time browsing for methods and ideas for trimming this outfit.  It’s to be an evening ensemble remember, so more is more.  The skirt will have a deep pleated frill round the hem, for decoration and structure, as well as a stiffened facing on the hem.  I’ve started gathering images on my Pinterest ‘trimmings’ board here.  The SWA[S]P pack #2 board is here.

I think some of my miles of binding could become trimming as well, I dug out one of my very few sewing books to have a mooch.  It’s this beauty that has stayed on a shelf unused for far too long

 

I MUST DO SOME OF THIS!  What a challenge…well, I may get as far as some samples anyway.

I’m expecting a visitor soon, and me scones are cooling [oo-er] so I’m off.  More news later!